Nature as Pest Control

Several weeks ago, I noticed my kale was starting to show signs of pest damage. I was determined to let things run their course and refused to spray anything on my food source. Predictably, things got worse before they got better. The kale started to look like swiss cheese.

I could see the nasty little pests crawling all over the leaves. The kale was loaded with them. I continued to ride it out.

After a few weeks, I started to see predatory insects on the leaves. Gradually, there were fewer and fewer pests and corresponding holes. The new growth was lovely.

Kale is very bitter during the hot summer months. I did not plan on eating any of the greens until they got a good frost, which makes them much sweeter. So I simply pulled off the damaged growth and was left with beautiful greens and a stronger predatory insect population.

Daylilies

I love Daylilies. They produce lovely flowers in an astounding array of colors, are hardy and can handle lots of abuse; many varieties are edible - leaves, tubers, and flowers!

Simple Sheet Mulch

Mulch helps conserve water, calms temperature swings, and improves soil. Sheet mulching is one of the gardener's most powerful tools. It builds soil and eradicates weeds without power equipment or chemicals.

Sheet mulch is beautifully simple. It begins with a weed barrier next to the soil, such as cardboard or newspaper. You can also use cloth, but it obviously takes longer to break down. I prefer cardboard because it is so much easier and faster to cover large areas. And I purchase a lot of things online, so it's an easy way to use all the boxes! (As a side note, I read that the ink in glossy newspaper contains metal pigments, but the black and white ink is soy-based and nontoxic; I assume cardboard is the same.)

If you wish to use soil amendments, such as lime for acidic soil, put them down first. You can also add some high-nitrogen material, such as fresh cut grass or produce waste from the kitchen. (For my ultra-simple sheet mulch in this area, I did neither of these.) Then add the weed barrier. This layer needs to block light in order to kill the existing plants; make sure the cardboard or newspaper overlaps so no light peeks through. It's a good idea to hose down the layer as you go so your paper doesn't blow away.

 A thin nitrogen-rich layer should be added next. Then comes the bulk of the sheet mulch: ideally, about a foot of organic matter such as straw, hay, leaves, wood shavings, etc. For my simple version, I put down only a few inches of straw. If you are using a high carbon mulch, you may add some nitrogen to this layer so the mulch decomposes more quickly. Again, it is beneficial for the mulch to be moistened.

On top of this, add a couple inches of compost. If the new bed won't be planted for several months, throw on some kitchen waste and treat this space as a compost pile.

The final layer is a couple inches of weed-seed-free material such as straw. I wouldn't recommend using hay for this top layer, as the dormant seeds will germinate and cause lots of unnecessary weed-pulling. I used wood chip mulch for my top layer. My goal was to keep the straw in place and give a finished look to the space.

I plan to plant this space next spring when the cardboard is well-rotted and easy to put a shovel through. A newly-constructed sheet mulch bed can be planted immediately, however. Sheet mulching is also known as lasagna gardening. Here is an excellent article with growing information for specific plants.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/lasagna-gardening-zmaz99amztak.aspx?page=8#axzz2N4iMBChZ

Crocasmia

Crocasmia is a lovely flower in the Iris family. It is native to South Africa and, like many foreign plants, can become invasive if left untended. I wanted to share my plant's progress this season.

developing buds...

 

opening...

 And then....pow!

Who needs a barn?

We have two buildings on our little 12 acres. One is our house; the other is a small shed in which we store the lawn mower, weed eaters, chainsaws, etc. There is nothing in the 1.5ish acres I fenced in for pasture. So what to do for the sheep? They certainly need a reliable shade source to provide relief from the unforgiving summer sun. Here is my solution.

First, I gathered my indispensable post driver. I used this fabulous tool to put up all my fence posts; it seems I am grabbing it to pound in a T post or two at least once a week.

I chose this little piece of bare dirt on purpose. The girls scratched (hooved?) the grass away under the structure in its previous location. I assume the bare earth is cooler. Anyway, I thought I'd save them some work by building their shade source on bare ground.

I place the posts in a rectangle, about 2' x 7' -ish.

Then comes the "hog" panel. Tractor Supply Company defines hog panels as 3' and cattle panels as 5' (if you go to purchase any), but this is a hog panel to me. This panel is 5' x 16'.  It helps to have a helping hand with this step. I never do and I'm always afraid the panel is going to whip back and gouge my arm or face.

I anchor the panel to the posts with one of my favorite tools - zip ties!

Next comes the tarp and it gets anchored the same way.

And we have an easy, cheap, portable, reusable shade source! I probably should have straightened the tarp, but it was really hot this morning. I used a 10' x 12' tarp. The trick is getting the tarp tight. If it has slack, the livestock won't appreciate it rustling in the wind, not to mention it will probably get blown off in a storm. And yes, this shelter has stood the test of storms and performed admirably. I purposely left a gap at the back so the sheep will benefit from the summer breezes we almost always have on the hilltop.

The sheep enjoy their shade and scratching center.

And cost? rough numbers here: The hog panels are about $30 a piece, T posts about $3, the tarp was about $15, zip ties are pennies. So we have this nice little shelter for approximately $60, not including time or the cost of tools. Not bad at all.

I would guess this could withstand Ohio winters, but I plan to build a straw bale structure for my girls. The winter winds can be pretty vicious up here. 

Herb Drying

I just finished drying the first batch of herbs of the season. I prefer perennial herbs that can be ignored and fend for themselves.

It is best to pick herbs early in the morning. They should be picked before flowering, as their flavor changes once they produce flowers. Inevitably, it is the lovely flowers that signal me to get busy and pick.

I chose the oregano stems that had not produced buds.

 I found this little guy among the oregano.

I gathered lemon balm to use in teas on cold, dark winter evenings.

I also gathered sage. My one plant has been around for several years. It enjoys sandy soil that is not too fertile (just what he have on this hilltop). Give sage full sun, good drainage, and good air circulation. I use the dried sage on beef roasts all winter long.

And lastly, but my no means the least, I gathered some rosemary. This wonderful herb brings the summer into winter dishes. Rosemary needs a dry soil; it does not like having its feet wet. The plant is not winter-hardy here in Ohio without assistance. I plan to place several straw bales around mine this winter to help it through. I enjoy the dried herb on chicken breasts and beans thrown in the Crockpot. It's also great with beef roasts.

A side note about the crown vetch beside my rosemary plant. I have waged a fearless battle with this plant for a few years. I finally gave in because it's rather a nice weed suppressor and it's a nitrogen-fixer. It's also impossible to eradicate.

I prefer to use a dehydrator for some of the drying process; the herbs seem to have more flavor if they are dried quickly. I rinse the herbs, remove the leaves, and spread them on the dehydrator trays (picture shows rosemary and sage).

The herbs are done drying when they are brittle and crumple easily. They will mold if stored when not properly dried.

I store them in re-purposed glass jars, but any airtight container will suffice. They make lovely gifts, especially on a white Christmas.

Shetland Colors

I snapped all these pictures in between pettings. Fairlie tries to climb me when I'm not petting her enough; Bonnie nibbles my shoes or forcefully rubs her head on my legs. So those brown things in the pictures are my knees.

The variation in color is one of the many things I love about Shetlands. There are specific terms to describe colors of Shetland wool.
http://www.shetland-sheep.org/about-shetlands/shetland-colors/ describe the colors this way:

Greys to Black (listed from light to dark)

• Light Grey
• Grey
• Emsket – dusky bluish-grey
• Shaela – dark steely-grey, like black frost
• Black

Browns (listed from light to dark)

• Musket – light greyish-brown
• Fawn
• Mioget – light moorit (yellowish-brown)
• Moorit – shades between fawn and dark reddish brown
• Dark Brown 

Many Shetlands change color throughout their lives. My own Fairlie is starting to lighten. She may turn a light gray or even an ivory like her mother. I think Bonnie will stay a true brown. Her fleece is lightened by the sun on the outside, so there is beautiful color variation. I can hardly wait to shear them in the spring and try my hand at spinning. They will give such gorgeous fiber.